Biking Across the Border (to Jersey)

Sundays are often the only day the fella and I can spend any real, relaxed, unhampered QT together because of our hectic and oft-conflicting schedules. Though I often take the spinning class he teaches, we rarely have enough time to take our bikes out together, so we jumped at the chance to ride out of Manhattan and spend the day cruising. Destination- Nyack.

40 miles, we're coming for ya. #cycling #NYC #nyack #bicycle

A photo posted by @keeliesheridan on May 17, 2015 at 8:40am PDT

This was my first time riding a bike across the GWB, and I found it pretty horrifically stressful. The bridge was packed, the lane is insanely narrow and shared with pedestrians and I'm not the world's most technically proficient rider, so you do the math. We made it across and started heading up 9W when our plans were quickly dashed.

The Gran Fondo was happening and 9W was closed TO EVERYONE (including bicycles that were not registered for the race). A police officer at the barricade cautioned us against a few of the side roads that could re-route us to Nyack. "Full of potholes. Insanely steep." He was probably just trying to avoid congestion in Nyack and deter more riders, but it worked. 

Yelp to the rescue- we scouted out nearby towns with lots of talked about restaurants and then veered off course. 

We spotted the outdoor seating at Simply Vietnamese and our minds were made up.

We each ordered a Vietnamese iced coffee. There is no doubt in my mind that if I do well in this life, I'll be reincarnated as one of these in the next. I drank A LOT of this stuff when I was in Vietnam. Read about that love affair here, here and here.

We split a Pork Bahn Mi sandwich and Lemongrass Chicken. I was expecting something grilled, but the curried, peanutty dish we received was pretty tasty. 

Food makes my boyfriend smile. Always.

We hopped back on our bikes and cruised down Dean Dr. to Englewood, where I had heard tell of Cupcakes by Carousel. 

Chocolate Peanut Butter Cup and Snowball. Awwwww yeah.

Washed it all down with some amino-y fruit punch-y thing (BLAH) and we headed back to Manhattan. The delightful downhill rides betrayed us on the return- the hills were punishing and even though we only ended up doing 25 miles, it felt like a whole lot more.

Trainer Jorge recommends you treat yourself to the following stretches after a nice long bike ride.

Important questions:

-Ladies (or anyone)- do you wear underwear under your padded shorts? I didn't... and I regretted it.

-What is the absolute most padding I can get in a bike short? Because seriously, ow.

Exploring Vietnam: Day 3: Sidestreets in Saigon and the Train to Hanoi

After the hustle and bustle of the previous day, Joe and I decided to head off the tourist track and veer away from the map's suggestions. We picked a direction (South), put away the map and started walking!

If you're a longtime reader of this blog, you'll know that Joe has been a long-time manager/ operations assistant/ social media guru/ wafel-slinger at Wafels & Dinges here in NYC. When we came across this sweet lady selling Vietnamese street wafels, we HAD to give them a try! 

The US Wafel Ambassador meets with the Vietnamese Wafel ambassador to discuss tricks of the trade. 

 Sweet, chewy, delicious!

Shopping!

The further away from the tourist district we wandered, the more colorful and exciting things became!

After purposely getting lost for an hour or so, I convinced Joe to stop at a sidewalk cafe for some ca phe sua da (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk).

Everywhere you go in Vietnam, you'll find plastic kiddie-sized furniture and a sweet old lady serving up some frosty beverages!

Notice all the men relaxing in the background? This is a common theme in Vietnam- a sentiment echoed to me in conversations with both Vietnamese men and women- anywhere you see a man relaxing, you'll see a woman hard at work nearby.

Though we had a serious language barrier (my Vietnamese is terrible and she spoke no English)- the lady running this little sidewalk corner joint took good care of Joe and I, moving us out of the sun when the clouds moved, making sure we had comfortable chairs, showing me how to properly tie the scarf on my straw hat, and attentively watching as I applied sunblock (which she thought was hilarious). And probably the best part of all- not overcharging us. I think we paid 24,000 VND for two iced coffees (appx $0.70 USD each)- it's common to charge Westerners up to double for the same services and goods- considering the average income of a Vietnamese family (even when adjusted for cost of living), this may be more fair than you think, but no one likes feeling like they're getting ripped off. As I stood up from my table, a gust of wind blew my hat into the middle of a treacherous intersection, and out of nowhere, a bystander dashed into the road, dodging motorbikes left and right, swooped up my hat, returned safely and dusted it off before placing it on my head for me, smiling and walking off. Hospitality at its finest, folks.

After an adventurous morning spent among the locals, we wandered back to the tourist track to freshen up, check out of our hotel (the front desk kindly agreed to hold our bags) and set back out for more sightseeing.  

The Ho Chi Minh City Museum is housed in the former Gia Long Palace and contains some beautiful antique pieces from private collections.

Like this gorgeous hand-carved wardrobe, which I want, regardless of the fact that it wouldn't even fit in the front door of my tiny Brooklyn studio apartment. A girl can dream, can't she?

Like most places in Vietnam, where there's shade and relative quiet, you'll find an animal lounging.

One day, I will live in a home with a staircase as grand as this one...

...If only so I can pose like this at the top of it. 

Oh hai, water buffalo.

Joe won't admit it, but he wants these stairs, too.

Refreshed by the shady, slow-paced museum (complete with free clean bathrooms- BOOM!) we were ready to find some lunch! We wandered for a bit and then stumbled across Dong Hoa Xuan. 

I got the Bahn Canh Cua.

Joe rocked the Banh Tom.

Yes... that's my second/third-ish iced coffee for the day and it's only lunchtime, but who's counting? Check out the rice noodles, sprouts and lettuce wraps to start! Yum!

This soup rocked me to my core. Savory, sweet, a bit spicy and not too complex.

Check these babies out! Shrimp and sweet potato fritters. Self-explanatory. And obviously delicious.

Drink up! We were sweating so much that staying hydrated was a constant task! Mmm... coconut!

Joe shared a few sips of his coconut while I journaled away! I ended up writing about 56 hand-written pages during this trip. How often do we get to hand-write anything these days?

We did some more wandering post-lunch, stopping in a bakery to wait out some intense rain and meeting this breadigator. Yep. Alligator made of bread. Only in Vietnam...

We returned to our hotel, sweaty and exhausted. We had already checked out, so we didn't have a room to rest in, but the awesome front desk guys were very accommodating, letting us lounge obnoxiously in the lobby and offering the "shower" in the lobby-level bathroom. Most showers in Vietnam are simply a showerhead protruding from the wall somewhere in the bathroom near a floor drain- no tub, no shower stall; just you, a tiled bathroom, and a hose. I was so ridiculously swampy from walking around in the heat that I happily trotted into the service bathroom, stripped buck-naked, hosed off, dried myself with the used towel hanging from the door and put back on my dirty clothes. Backpacker-Keelie's hygiene standards are significantly lower than at-home-Keelie's. You've been warned- that was by far not the grossest thing I did in Vietnam- it only gets sketchier from here on out, folks.

We kept it simple for dinner and decided not to stray too far- we were on a time-budget since we had a train to catch that evening. We ended up at Pao Cafe. 

The service was great. The food was... fine. Not good. Not bad. Pretty unremarkable... and... there were tiny ants on my plate. Like, a lot. I noticed after I was done eating- I think they were coming from the greens served with my soup. At home, I would have FREAKED OUT. Here? I didn't even mention it to the waitstaff. I told you- my hygiene standards shift depending on what part of the world I'm in... And honestly, I really wasn't that skeeved out...

We taxi'd it to the train station an hour and a half early and settled in at the Highlands Coffee in the station to wait for boarding. We had booked our tickets online in advance through Vietnam Impressive- you can only do online advanced purchase through independent agencies, as the train service in Vietnam doesn't sell tickets online. We paid a bit more, but it wasn't unreasonable and knowing that we would definitely be in the soft-sleeper car for our 30 hour trip was worth it. Plus, they delivered our tickets to our hotel- simple as pie!

Can you tell we were exhausted?

COFFEE! We ended up taking ours to-go, as the train began boarding sooner than expected (about 45 minutes before departure).

TIPS FROM DAY 3:

-Communicate with your front desk staff- they're there to help! And in Vietnam, they were all very helpful. Our front desk held our bags, hooked me up with a shower and arranged all our taxi trips (you will pay a tiny bit more to have your trips arranged by the front desk- frequently you pay them and they in turn pay the driver, but the peace of mind is worth it). 

-
-To the best of your ability, learn and respect local customs, especially regarding clothing. Most backpackers in Vietnam (and let's be honest, in most of the world) pack light and comfortable, which usually equals dressing a bit slummy. In Vietnam, hardly anyone wears shorts or short skirts, tank tops or anything see-through- the dress errs a bit on the formal and conservative side. This is especially true of women, and I found that making the extra effort to blend clothing-wise was appreciated. Long-ish skirts, flowy gauchos and light-weight blouses pack quite easily.

-Get (relatively) lost! Use common sense to stay safe and enjoy seeing parts of your destination that most visitors won't ever see.

In case you missed them, check out:

Exploring Vietnam Day 1: The Long Haul
Exploring Vietnam Day 2: Ho Chi Minh City

Exploring Vietnam: Day 2: Ho Chi Minh City

We started our morning off early in Ho Chi Minh City. The Bich Duyen Hotel serves a free breakfast, so we shuffled downstairs to see what was available. 

 Pineapple juice! Boom!

 And delicious Vietnamese dark roast coffee with sweetened condensed milk- ca phe sua.

The bananas in Vietnam are significantly smaller than the conventional grocery store ones we see here in the US, and even the green ones taste quite ripe!

 Bahn mi (only refers to the bread, not the sandwich, like many American Vietnamese-food aficionados believe) with thick strawberry preserves and eggs with veggies!

After breakfast, we grabbed a map and headed off in search of adventure. 

First stop- Ben Thanh Market. You can find pretty much anything your heart desires here- clothes, linens, coffee, groceries, prepared food, flowers, shoes, jewelry, souvenirs- for cheap, but prepare to bargain- vendors will quote shoppers (especially Western-looking ones) up to double the actual price- bring your smile and start knocking down the price. Fun tip- it's considered rude for men to bargain in Vietnam- ladies only! 

Classy.

Fresh seafood!

Shapely gams. 

Mangosteen! One of the more expensive fruits in Vietnam, but well worth it! Inside, you'll find citrus-like sections of a sweet, banana-y/ berry-ish white fruit!

Another beauty- dragon fruit. I ate this all over Vietnam- it seems to be a national favorite. The rhine, when cut, is an extraordinary fuchsia color, which conceals sweet, mild, white meat with tiny edible black seeds.

The market was a blast and definitely a sight to be seen, but a bit overwhelming (coming from someone who navigates Manhattan and Brooklyn on a daily basis). Prepare for some aggressive (albeit friendly) vending- you will be approached by EVERY vendor you walk past, and even some you don't.  

As the temperatures rose, we sought shelter in the shade of nearby park.

Just two cool kids, keeping cool... 

With some frosty liquid caffeine! Ca phe sua da (or nau da if you're up north). Vietnamese coffee, sweetened condensed milk and ice, served with a pot of lotus tea.

Mama likey.

We sipped on our sweet and strong frosty drinks while slowing our internal clocks down a bit and taking in some of the beautiful sculptures dotting the park.

After we had cooled down (as much as you can in the steamy Saigon heat), we continued to wander.

We found our way to the quite beautiful Saigon Central Post Office.

We picked up some stamps and (mildly overpriced) postcards to send notes home!

Joe sends some love home from Vietnam!

While filling out postcards, two very friendly Japanese tourists from Osaka approached me and asked if they could have their picture taken with me. Who knew I'd be one of the sights in Vietnam?

From Saigon with love.

Across the street, there's a beautiful cathedral. I've heard on certain days you can visit, but it seemed locked up tight when we passed by.

With much more of the city to see, we moved on!

Next stop- Reunification Palace (aka- where the Vietnam War ended).

Breathtakingly beautiful architecture, steeped in history. AND- free restrooms (with toilet paper)! What's not to love?

We chowed down at a nearby restaurant that was honestly a bit forgettable, touristy and over-priced but had decent food and icy-cold air conditioning!

Fried noodles for me!

And a beef curry soup with bread for Joe!

I had read that the War Remnants Museum was a must visit. I can honestly say that I agree wholeheartedly. 

The first floor contains a collection of world-wide outreach and response to the war. Keep in mind that this museum speaks to the Vietnamese experience of the American War (as it's referred to there), just as American museums present our perspective of worldwide events.

Things get a bit more intense on the second floor. Rooms dedicated to war crimes, the affect of dioxin (the US's chemical weapon of choice at the time- used to create Agent Orange) and the widespread devastation are filled with some of the most horrific and chilling images I've ever seen. I am forever changed for having seen some of those pictures. This babble-mouthed journalist has absolutely no words to describe them. I have a new appreciation and respectful acquiescence of ignorance of the true horror that everyone involved in the American-Vietnamese war experienced. 

For obvious reasons, I am not sharing graphic images in this post. Below are some of the more poignant images that stuck with me. I am actively searching for photo credits, as they were not clearly displayed at the museum.

Outside the museum there are several tanks, airplanes and helicopters- US and Vietnamese- relics of an unbelievable past. 

Go. It is heartbreaking. It is emotional. It is difficult for anyone to bear; for this American, it was particularly tough, but I'm very, very grateful to have seen a new perspective on such an historic event. It is only by confronting the past that we can move into a brighter future.

We went back to the hotel after the museum for showers- I hit a cheap spa down the block for an hour massage, a 40 min foot massage, mani and pedi for $20 (including tip). True. Story.

We finished up the night with some pretty bangin' pho from Quan Pho Quynh! 

And maybe I had an iced coffee after dark...

Joe found his inner tiger...

Pho, or as I affectionately call it, "pho me???" (because I ALWAYS want to eat it) is a Vietnamese noodle soup served with a variety of add-ins and condiments. So. Freaking. Delicious. I could easily have eaten it every day, but I had to put a limit on myself- there are so many delicious dishes to try, and I only had two weeks!

TIPS FROM DAY 2:

-Several attractions close for lunch. Check schedules ahead of time and plan to eat your lunch at the same time, or wait around for an hour and a half. :)

-Finding bathrooms in foreign cities can be quite the challenge. Most, if not all, of the main museums/ attractions offer bathrooms. Admission to these attractions range from $1-$1.50 USD/pp. It's worth it. They're quite interesting, and the brief bit of shade/ AC and a moderately clean bathrooms will lift your spirits immensely!

-Bring your own TP and soap/ sanitizer. Always.

In case you missed it, see also:

Exploring Vietnam Day 1: The Long Haul